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UPS battery backup protecting a home network closet with NAS, PoE switch, router and Ethernet equipment.”
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Best UPS for a Home Network Closet: NAS, PoE, Cameras and Wi-Fi

Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Product links may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

A modem and Wi-Fi router are easy to protect with a UPS. A full home network closet is a different problem.

Once you add switches, wireless access points, PoE cameras, a NAS, a firewall, smart-home hubs and other equipment, you have more power draw, more devices that need to shut down cleanly and more reasons to care about what happens when the power stays out for longer than five minutes.

I use UPS units for both my networking gear and my NAS. My current NAS runs TrueNAS on a low-power Intel N100-based system, so it does not require a giant UPS by itself. But the NAS is only one part of the load. The router, switches, access points and other network equipment all need power too.

I have also had both sides of the UPS problem: an unsafe shutdown after losing power and a UPS battery that failed when I expected it to protect the equipment. Those experiences changed how I think about sizing a UPS. Capacity matters, but so do battery condition, monitoring, graceful shutdown and the reliability of the power where the equipment actually lives.

Quick answer: For a home network closet with a NAS, PoE switch and several other devices, a good starting point is looking at a 1500VA-class UPS with sine-wave output, USB or network monitoring and replaceable batteries. The CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD is the value choice I would consider first. For a NAS or server setup where management and expandability matter more, I would step up to the APC SMT1500C or Eaton 5P1500.

UPS Capacity Best For My Take Check Price
CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD 1500VA / 1000W Most home network closets Best value Check price
APC Back-UPS Pro BR1500MS2 1500VA / 900W Large home networks without server-class needs Good bridge between consumer and network-closet UPS units Check price
APC Smart-UPS SMT1500C 1440VA / 1000W NAS, servers and serious network closets My step-up APC choice Check price
Eaton 5P1500 1440VA / 1100W Premium network and server setups Excellent management-oriented option Check price
APC Smart-UPS SMT1500RM2UC 1440VA / 1000W Rack-mounted network closets Best fit if the rest of the equipment is already in a rack Check price

When a Router UPS Is No Longer Enough

I have a separate guide to the best UPS for a router and modem. If your entire critical load is an ONT or cable modem, router and perhaps one small switch, start there. You probably do not need the equipment in this article.

A network closet becomes a different problem when it contains things like:

  • A modem or fiber ONT
  • A router or dedicated firewall
  • One or more Ethernet switches
  • A PoE switch
  • Multiple Wi-Fi access points
  • Security cameras
  • An NVR
  • A NAS
  • A small home server
  • Home Assistant or other automation hardware
  • Smart-home bridges

At that point I care less about finding the smallest UPS that can technically support the equipment and more about building enough margin into the system that it remains useful as the network changes. Also, remember not every device needs to have redundant power.

Start With Watts, Not VA

Measure the actual network load instead of guessing using a smart plug or similar device. Knowing whether the closet uses 90 watts or 350 watts completely changes your considerations.

UPS marketing leads with VA ratings, but the watt rating is just as important. A UPS can be rated at 1500VA and still support a different maximum number of watts than another 1500VA model.

That is visible in the products above. The APC Back-UPS Pro BR1500MS2 is rated for 900 watts, the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD and APC Smart-UPS models here are rated for 1000 watts, and the Eaton 5P1500 is rated for 1100 watts.

You do not want to add the wattage printed on every power adapter and assume that is your actual load. Those labels generally describe what the power supply can provide, not necessarily what the device consumes continuously.

Measure the whole network closet

If everything is already connected to one UPS, the UPS display may show current load. You can also use a plug-in power meter between the wall and the equipment while temporarily running it without the UPS.

Measure during normal operation and then consider what changes under load. A NAS may draw more power while its disks are active. A PoE switch may consume considerably more as additional cameras and access points draw power.

I would also leave room for the next device. Home networks have a habit of growing.

PoE Makes UPS Sizing More Interesting

A normal Ethernet switch has a relatively predictable load. A PoE switch is powering other equipment through the network cable, so the switch itself is only part of the calculation.

If the switch powers cameras, wireless access points, phones or other PoE devices, that downstream load is also being supplied by the UPS.

This is one reason backing up the switch can be so useful. One UPS connection may keep an entire group of cameras and access points online. It also means that adding another six PoE cameras later can materially change the amount of battery runtime you have.

When sizing the UPS, look at actual PoE consumption rather than simply the switch’s maximum advertised PoE budget. Then leave enough capacity for growth.

A NAS Changes What I Want From a UPS

A router reboot is annoying. An abrupt NAS shutdown is something I work harder to avoid.

A NAS may be writing data, updating filesystem metadata or running applications when utility power disappears. The goal of the UPS is therefore not necessarily to run the NAS for hours. It may be to keep the machine alive long enough for the outage to prove that it is not a momentary flicker and then shut the system down cleanly.

This is why I consider communications support essential when a NAS or server is part of the load.

TrueNAS and NUT

TrueNAS includes UPS support using Network UPS Tools, commonly called NUT. A compatible UPS can communicate with the NAS over USB, serial or, with suitable hardware, over the network.

TrueNAS can then react to UPS status and initiate a controlled shutdown rather than waiting for the battery to become completely exhausted.

The exact UPS and driver still matter. If automatic shutdown is important to you, check the current TrueNAS UPS documentation and the Network UPS Tools compatibility information before buying.

TrueNAS can also operate with one system acting as the UPS monitor while other systems receive status across the network. That is useful when several servers share one sufficiently large UPS.

If you are interested in the NAS side of my setup, I have an entire Building My NAS series covering the hardware and software decisions.

How Much Runtime Do You Actually Need?

This is where I think a lot of UPS recommendations go wrong. The correct size depends on the power where the equipment is located.

A network closet in a city apartment with an occasional one-second flicker has a very different problem from equipment sitting unattended at a vacation house where an outage might last six hours.

If your problem is brief flickers

Your main goal is continuity. You want the modem, router, switches and NAS to ignore a brief voltage drop that would otherwise reboot everything.

Runtime is secondary. Even a modest amount of battery capacity may be enough, although I still prefer reasonable headroom rather than running a UPS near its maximum load.

If you get occasional short outages

Now runtime becomes useful. If most outages last five or ten minutes, I want the network to stay up rather than immediately begin shutting things down.

A 1500VA-class unit becomes attractive because a network closet usually draws far less than the UPS’s maximum watt rating, allowing more runtime than it would provide to a heavily loaded desktop computer.

If outages are frequent

Battery wear and monitoring become more important. Every battery discharge uses part of the battery’s useful life.

This is also where Automatic Voltage Regulation is valuable. A line-interactive UPS with AVR can correct certain voltage variations without moving to battery every time the incoming voltage wanders outside its preferred range.

For a deeper look at AVR, waveform, communications and other UPS features, see How to Choose a UPS With the Right Features.

If long outages are common

A larger UPS may delay the shutdown, but eventually this stops being primarily a UPS-sizing problem.

If the power regularly disappears for hours, you may need a generator, a much larger battery system or another backup-power strategy. The UPS can bridge the gap, protect the equipment from short disturbances and give servers time to shut down properly.

If the network is at a remote or vacation property

This is the case where monitoring becomes especially valuable.

If nobody is there to hear the UPS beeping, I want some way to know that the property lost power and that the battery is being depleted.

There is another limitation: keeping your router alive does not guarantee that your internet service remains alive. Your cable company, fiber provider or other ISP has equipment upstream from your house. A neighborhood-wide outage may eventually take that infrastructure offline too.

If remote connectivity is important enough, consider cellular failover as a separate layer.

I discuss the rest of that problem in my guide to vacation-home remote monitoring.

Best Value: CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD

For many home network closets, the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD is where I would start.

It provides 1500VA/1000W capacity, sine-wave output, Automatic Voltage Regulation, 12 outlets and USB communications. CyberPower also supports optional network management for the model.

That is a lot of capability for a home network, NAS and PoE setup without moving all the way into enterprise UPS pricing.

I would buy it for: a serious home network closet where value matters and USB shutdown is sufficient.

Check the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD on Amazon

Best Consumer Step-Up: APC Back-UPS Pro BR1500MS2

The APC BR1500MS2 sits between the small consumer UPS and the more IT-oriented Smart-UPS line.

It is rated at 1500VA/900W, has 10 outlets, AVR, an LCD and a user-replaceable battery.

If your closet is mostly networking gear with perhaps a low-power NAS, this may be enough. If I were protecting a more substantial server or knew I wanted network-management options, I would move up to the Smart-UPS or Eaton choices below.

I would buy it for: a large home network that has outgrown a basic router UPS but does not need the management features of a higher-end unit.

Check the APC BR1500MS2 on Amazon

Best APC for a NAS or Server: APC Smart-UPS SMT1500C

The APC SMT1500C is where the product starts to feel more like network infrastructure.

It is a 1440VA/1000W line-interactive sine-wave UPS with eight outlets, AVR, a replaceable battery, USB/serial shutdown support, a SmartConnect Ethernet port and a SmartSlot for additional management options.

The difference is not simply another hundred watts. I am paying for a platform designed around servers, storage and network closets.

I would buy it for: a NAS or server I care about enough to justify spending more for management, monitoring and a more IT-oriented UPS platform.

Check the APC SMT1500C on Amazon

Premium Tower Choice: Eaton 5P1500

The Eaton 5P1500 is the premium tower option in this group.

It is rated at 1440VA/1100W, has eight outlets and true sine-wave output. Eaton includes USB and serial connectivity, with an optional network card for remote management.

The higher watt rating also gives a little more room for equipment growth, although runtime still depends on the actual load.

I would buy it for: a serious home lab or network closet where management, build quality and server-oriented features justify the higher cost.

Check the Eaton 5P1500 on Amazon

Best Rackmount Choice: APC SMT1500RM2UC

If the network already lives in a rack, the APC SMT1500RM2UC is the cleanest choice here.

It is a 2U rackmount Smart-UPS rated at 1440VA/1000W with six outlets, sine-wave output, AVR, SmartConnect, SmartSlot expansion and USB or serial shutdown support.

The advantage is organizational as much as electrical. Instead of putting a heavy tower on the floor or a shelf beside the rack, the UPS becomes part of the rack itself.

Remember that a rackmount UPS is heavy. Install it low in the rack and make sure the rack and mounting hardware are designed to support it.

I would buy it for: a permanent rack-mounted network installation where clean organization and IT-style management matter.

Check the APC SMT1500RM2UC on Amazon

Tower vs. Rackmount UPS

Choose a Tower UPS If… Choose a Rackmount UPS If…
Your network equipment sits on shelves You already have a standard equipment rack
You want the lowest cost for the capacity You want the UPS integrated neatly into the rack
You may move the UPS between locations The installation is relatively permanent
Rack space is limited Floor and shelf space are limited
You do not need rack-oriented cable management You want UPS and PDU wiring contained in the rack

Do not buy rackmount simply because it looks more professional. Tower units generally give a home user more flexibility and often better value.

Should You Use a Rack PDU?

A rack PDU can make sense when the UPS does not provide enough conveniently located receptacles for all the low-power equipment in a rack.

A proper PDU is a power-distribution device, not another UPS. Eaton specifically describes a UPS feeding a PDU as a normal basic network-closet architecture, and APC also distinguishes rack PDUs from ordinary surge strips.

Do not solve an outlet shortage by daisy-chaining UPS units. Do not casually add a household surge strip or extension cord to the output either. UPS manufacturers have specific requirements for what can be connected to their equipment.

If you need more outlets, check the UPS manufacturer’s guidance and use an appropriately rated PDU intended for the application.

Do You Need Pure Sine Wave?

For a simple modem and router, I would not make waveform the only buying criterion.

Once a NAS, server or other equipment with an active-PFC power supply is involved, I prefer a sine-wave UPS. It removes a compatibility question and is already standard on the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD, APC Smart-UPS models and Eaton 5P1500 covered here.

This is one of those features where I would rather buy it once than diagnose a strange shutdown later.

Battery Replacement Matters More Than the UPS Brand Name

A UPS is not a permanent appliance. Its battery is a consumable.

I learned this the irritating way when equipment protected by a UPS went down even though there had not been an obvious outage. The UPS was still sitting there doing its job in theory. The battery was no longer capable of doing its job in practice.

I wrote about that experience in UPS Batteries May Only Last 2–3 Years — And They Usually Fail Without Warning.

For a network closet, I would:

  • Buy a UPS with replaceable batteries
  • Write the battery installation date on the UPS
  • Enable battery and self-test alerts
  • Check reported battery condition periodically
  • Test whether the UPS can actually carry the network load
  • Replace a weak battery before an outage exposes the problem

A UPS showing a green light is not the same thing as a UPS with a healthy battery.

What Should Be on Battery Backup?

Prioritize the equipment that either keeps connectivity alive or needs an orderly shutdown.

For my network closet, the battery-backed side would include:

  • ONT or modem
  • Router or firewall
  • Core network switch
  • PoE switch if it powers critical cameras or access points
  • NAS
  • Essential Wi-Fi access points
  • Home-automation controller
  • Critical monitoring gateways

I would be much less interested in using battery capacity for:

  • Monitors that do not need to stay on
  • Printers
  • Speakers
  • Decorative lighting
  • Chargers that can wait
  • Nonessential lab equipment

What Should Never Be Connected to a Normal Network UPS?

A UPS designed for computers and networking equipment should not become a general emergency outlet.

High-draw heating and motor loads can quickly overload it. I would not connect things such as:

  • Laser printers
  • Space heaters
  • Vacuum cleaners
  • Refrigerators or freezers unless the UPS was specifically selected for that load
  • Air conditioners
  • Large pumps
  • Other appliances with substantial startup current

Keep the UPS focused on the network and computing equipment it was purchased to protect.

Ancillary Gear I Would Buy With the UPS

The UPS is the major purchase, but a few inexpensive additions make the installation better.

A plug-in watt meter

Measure the actual network load instead of guessing. Knowing whether the closet uses 90 watts or 350 watts completely changes the runtime discussion.\

A proper rack PDU if you need more outlets

For rack installations, use suitable power distribution rather than a pile of consumer power strips. Follow the UPS manufacturer’s recommendations for connected distribution equipment.

An optional network-management card where it adds value

This is most useful when the UPS sits in a remote location, supports several machines or needs to be monitored without depending on one USB-connected computer.

The Eaton 5P supports an optional network card. APC’s Smart-UPS models include SmartConnect and a SmartSlot for additional management options. CyberPower supports optional remote network management on the CP1500PFCLCD.

A replacement-battery reminder

Put a calendar reminder in place when the UPS is installed. Waiting until the battery fails defeats a large part of the reason you bought the UPS.

My Buying Decision

If I were building a normal home network closet today, I would buy the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD first. It gives me the combination of capacity, sine-wave output, communications and price that makes sense for most home setups.

If the NAS or server were more important, or if I expected to invest in better UPS management, I would move to the APC SMT1500C or Eaton 5P1500.

If the entire installation were rack-mounted, I would strongly consider spending the extra money on the APC SMT1500RM2UC rather than finding somewhere to put a tower.

But I would make that decision only after measuring the actual load.

A 1500VA UPS is not automatically better because the number is larger. The goal is to buy enough capacity and runtime for the equipment, give the NAS time to shut down cleanly, and make sure the UPS can tell you when its battery is no longer ready to do the job.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size UPS do I need for a home network closet?

Measure the actual wattage of the modem or ONT, router, switches, PoE devices, NAS and other equipment you want to protect. For a larger network closet containing a NAS and PoE equipment, a 1500VA-class UPS is a useful starting point, but the correct size depends on both total watts and the runtime you need.

Is a 1500VA UPS overkill for a router and modem?

Usually. If you are only protecting a modem or ONT and Wi-Fi router, see our router and modem UPS guide. The larger units in this article make more sense when a NAS, PoE switch, cameras, access points or servers are part of the load.

Should my NAS be connected to a UPS?

Yes, if the NAS contains data you care about. A UPS can protect it from brief outages and, with compatible communications and software, provide enough warning for a controlled shutdown during a longer outage.

Can TrueNAS shut itself down when the UPS battery is low?

Yes. TrueNAS uses Network UPS Tools for UPS monitoring and shutdown functions. Verify that your exact UPS is supported and configure and test the shutdown behavior before depending on it.

Should a PoE switch be on the UPS?

If the PoE switch powers equipment you want available during an outage, such as cameras or Wi-Fi access points, putting it on battery backup can protect all those devices at once. Remember that their combined PoE consumption is part of the UPS load.

How long will a UPS run my network?

Runtime depends on UPS model, battery condition and actual load. Do not estimate it from the VA rating alone. Measure the network’s wattage and use the manufacturer’s current runtime chart or calculator for the specific UPS.

Should I buy a rackmount or tower UPS?

Buy a tower UPS if you want flexibility and value. Buy rackmount when the network already lives in a rack and the cleaner installation is worth the added cost and rack space.

Will a UPS keep my internet working during a blackout?

It can keep your equipment powered, but it cannot guarantee that the ISP’s upstream infrastructure stays online. For a remote property where connectivity is critical, consider cellular failover in addition to UPS backup.

Can I plug a surge protector into a UPS?

Do not assume that an ordinary surge strip or extension cord is acceptable. Manufacturers including APC and CyberPower warn against common surge-strip configurations with their UPS products. If you need more rack outlets, use an appropriately rated PDU and follow the UPS manufacturer’s instructions.

How often should I replace a UPS battery?

Battery life varies with battery chemistry, temperature, discharge frequency and UPS design. Instead of relying only on age, monitor the UPS, perform tests and make sure the battery can still support the actual load. Replace a weak battery before you need it during a real outage.

Published on August 9, 2026
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Damaged cable on an Elegoo Centauri Carbon 3D printer
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Elegoo Promised a Free Centauri Carbon Cable. Support Offered to Sell Me One

In a previous post, I talked about Elegoo finally releasing the Canvas upgrade for the original Centauri Carbon. I quite like the Centauri Carbon, which is my first Core XY printer. It has been a great workhorse for me. But this interaction disappointed me.

The Broken Cable

As I prepared to complete the installation of the Canvas, I discovered that the cable that transmits power and data was damaged. This was a common complaint online, that the cable would wear under the strain of use. I was not willing to continue using a damaged cable providing power to a motor and preheating a nozzle to 250 degrees celsius, this seemed a potential problem. I stopped working on the printer upgrade and contacted Elegoo for the upgraded cable the company had publicly promised to customers with this problem, that was less likely to experience this problem..

Many users expressed concern about this wear as a safety issue.  On Reddit Elegoo acknowledged concerns about wear on this part and would start providing an upgraded and revised part, and they noted that they would provide a free cable to customers in need. Elegoo denied that their testing had revealed any fire risk, regardless. Online comments report the cable sparking when shorting out, data and power issues after repeated strain, etc.

Out of Warranty?

Elegoo’s initial response was to agree with me the cable should be replaced immediately. but that my printer was out of warranty. Support asked whether I wanted a quote for the replacement cable. I pointed to their own post in support of their commitment.

But the statement I was out of warranty on the printer was surprising for another reason. When they released the Carbon, they promised an upgrade for multi-color…then they released a sequel, the Carbon 2. After receiving public criticism from early adopters for not releasing the upgrade(which they finally did more recently), they offered an apology gift to purchasers of either a coupon for their store, a discount on the CC2, or an extended warranty. I took the one year extended warranty.

I shouldn’t have even had to discuss the warranty because of their commitment on the cable.  In both cases, I needed to remind them of their own promises.

So, they:

  • gave me an extended one-year warranty as an apology for not delivering an upgrade they said was coming soon
  • they publicly offered a replacement for the cable for people who needed it
  • they tried to ignore my warranty extension
  • they tried to charge me for the cable.

Rather disappointing from Elegoo. When I pushed…they agreed I in fact had been given an extra year and they had offered replacement cables to people, and promised to send me one….then they told me they appreciate my patience as there might be a delay in shipping. It didn’t seem to be that long though, so not sure why I had to be patient.

Replacing the Cable

I am not claiming to be the best or most experienced at repairing 3d printers. But I had just dismantled large pieces of the Centauri Carbon without issue to install the Canvas upgrade. I had no issue following the instructions after watching the instructional video. I removed the old cable, and then discovered how incredibly hard it is to fit the cable through a very narrow opening…a fact they cut past in the instructional video. After I got the cable installed, the functionality returned..but without the Canvas plugged in. So still more to do there. Hopefully, whatever isn’t working is still under warranty.

Despite the Issues Elegoo Still Makes a Compelling Product

No one expects a company to provide replacement parts forever. But it is expected they honor their warranty agreement and any offers they make. When Elegoo released the Carbon, there were significant differences between all the production models. Early models had flaws that were fixed in later production. So, when they quickly released the Carbon 2…it was seen by many as if they’d beta tested a product for Elegoo and Elegoo had turned around and quickly moved on.

A customer should not have to find a company’s public statements or remind it of offers it made in the past. It should have given me the right answer the first time.

I will ultimately continue using the Elegoo Centauri Carbon, as it has been a generally good workhorse for me. Elegoo makes a good product, and they keep coming close to making good decisions around it…and falling short. I hope they address these issues in the long term.

Published on August 9, 2026
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Ring and Blink security cameras displayed with an Amazon Prime Day deal tag, highlighting early Prime Day smart home camera discounts
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Early Prime Day Ring and Blink Camera Deals: Are They Actually Worth It?

Amazon is already offering early Prime Day deals on Ring and Blink cameras. That makes sense. Amazon owns both brands, and smart-home cameras are exactly the kind of product that gets pushed hard during Prime Day.

But the better question is not whether a Ring or Blink camera is on sale.

The better question is whether the deal is actually worth buying once you include subscriptions, recording limits, local storage, battery life, and what you want the camera to do.

Prime Day 2026 runs from June 23 through June 26, but early deals are already appearing. If you are looking at a discounted Ring doorbell, Blink Outdoor camera, Blink floodlight camera, or Ring outdoor camera, this is the moment to slow down before clicking buy.

Quick Answer: Are Early Prime Day Ring and Blink Camera Deals Worth It?

Ring and Blink camera deals can be worth it if you want an easy, inexpensive camera system and understand the subscription tradeoffs. Blink is usually the better budget choice if you want some local recording options. Ring is usually better if you already use Ring devices, want a polished app experience, or care more about convenience than avoiding a subscription.

The key difference is recording. Blink has a local-storage path through Sync Module hardware, using USB storage with Sync Module 2 or microSD storage with Sync Module XR. Ring cameras can still be used without a subscription for some basic features, but recorded video history and saved clips generally require a Ring Protect plan.

Choice Best For Main Tradeoff
Blink Budget camera setups, simple monitoring, some local storage options Less polished and more limited than higher-end systems
Ring Easy doorbell/camera setup, polished app, existing Ring households Recording and many useful features require a subscription
Local-first alternatives People who dislike subscriptions or want more control More setup, more decisions, less “just works” convenience

Why Ring and Blink Deals Are Complicated

A discounted smart camera is not just a camera purchase. It is often a system decision.

The camera itself may be cheap. The ongoing plan may not be. That does not automatically make Ring or Blink a bad deal. It does mean the sale price is only part of the math.

Before buying, ask yourself:

  • Do I need recorded clips, or only live view?
  • Do I want to avoid monthly subscriptions?
  • Do I already use Alexa, Ring, or Blink devices?
  • Is this for a primary home, vacation home, garage, or rental property?
  • Do I need indoor cameras, outdoor cameras, a doorbell, or all of them?
  • Do I care about local storage?
  • Do I want the easiest setup, or the most control?

Those answers matter more than the sale badge.

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. If you buy through these links, Gadget Wisdom may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.

Blink Cameras: The Budget-Friendly Option

Blink is usually the more budget-friendly Amazon camera brand.

That does not mean Blink is always better. It means Blink tends to make more sense if you want basic cameras at a lower hardware cost and are willing to live with a simpler system.

The biggest advantage is that Blink has a local-storage path. With compatible Blink cameras and the right Sync Module, you can save clips locally to USB or microSD storage instead of relying only on cloud recording. That makes Blink more interesting for people who do not want another monthly subscription.

That said, local storage is not the same thing as a full professional camera system. You are still buying an inexpensive consumer camera setup. The app, features, and responsiveness may not satisfy someone who wants a serious local NVR or advanced smart-home integration.

Blink Deals I Would Check First

If I were looking at early Prime Day Blink deals, I would focus on outdoor cameras, doorbells, and bundles that include the hardware needed for the setup I actually want.

You can see the current Blink camera and doorbell deals on Amazon.

  • Blink Outdoor 2K Plus — the first Blink deal I would check if you want a multi-camera outdoor setup.
  • Blink Outdoor XR — worth comparing if range or outdoor placement is the main issue.
  • Blink Wired Floodlight Camera — a better fit for a driveway, garage, side yard, or exterior area where lighting matters.
  • Blink Battery Doorbell — useful if you want a lower-cost doorbell camera and do not want to depend on existing wiring.
  • Blink Wired Doorbell — worth comparing if you already have doorbell wiring and want to avoid battery charging.

For Blink, pay close attention to the bundle. A deal that includes the right Sync Module or multiple cameras may be more useful than the lowest-priced single camera.

Ring Cameras: Easy, Polished, And Subscription-Heavy

Ring is the better-known brand, especially for video doorbells.

The Ring app is polished. Setup is easy. The doorbells and cameras are mainstream enough that many people already understand them. If you want a simple consumer security-camera setup and do not mind paying for Ring Protect, Ring can be a very reasonable choice.

The subscription is the catch.

Without a Ring Protect plan, you can still use certain basic features. But if you want recorded video history, saved clips, and many of the features people expect from a security camera, assume the subscription is part of the real cost.

Ring Deals I Would Check First

If I were looking at Ring deals, I would start with the doorbell and outdoor-camera deals. Ring makes the most sense when you want simple setup, an easy app, and you are comfortable with the subscription model.

You can see the current Ring camera and doorbell deals on Amazon.

  • Ring Battery Doorbell — the most obvious Ring product to consider if you want a simple doorbell camera.
  • Ring Outdoor Camera — useful if you already use Ring and want outdoor coverage in the same app.
  • Ring Doorbell deal — compare carefully against the Battery Doorbell and make sure you know which model and bundle you are buying.

If you are starting from zero and want to avoid subscriptions, Ring is a harder sell. If you already use Ring Protect and want another device in the same app, the deals may make more sense.

Ring vs. Blink: Which One Should You Buy?

I would choose based on what you are trying to avoid.

If you are trying to avoid subscriptions, start by looking at Blink or a local-first alternative. Blink is not a perfect no-subscription system, but it at least gives you a local-storage path with the right hardware.

If you are trying to avoid complexity, Ring may be the better choice. Ring is simple, familiar, and polished. The tradeoff is that you should assume the subscription is part of the real cost if recording matters to you.

Situation Better Fit Why
You want the cheapest multi-camera setup Blink Lower hardware cost and useful bundles
You want a polished doorbell camera Ring Strong app experience and mature ecosystem
You want recording without a monthly plan Blink or local-first alternative Ring recording depends heavily on Ring Protect
You already use Ring Protect Ring Adding more Ring devices may be simpler
You want a serious local camera system Neither Look at PoE cameras, NVRs, or local smart-home setups

When I Would Skip Ring And Blink

I would skip both Ring and Blink if your main goal is a serious local security-camera setup.

There are other systems that offer more local control, better continuous recording options, higher camera quality, local NVR support, or better integration with platforms like Home Assistant. Those systems are more work. They are also less dependent on a company subscription plan.

That is the tradeoff.

Ring and Blink are easy. Easy has value. But easy often means you are accepting the company’s app, cloud, subscription, and feature limits.

If you want a camera system for a vacation home, rental property, garage, or primary home and you mostly care about quick alerts, Ring or Blink may be fine. If you want long-term local recording and full control, they may be the wrong place to start.

Are These Good For A Vacation Home?

Ring and Blink can both be useful for a vacation home, but I would not treat cameras as the entire monitoring plan.

Cameras can show you doors, driveways, garages, decks, or outdoor activity. They do not tell you everything. A camera will not detect a hidden water leak, a freezing pipe, a humidity problem, or whether your router went offline unless you build the rest of the system around it.

If the camera is part of a broader second-home setup, think about:

  • router and modem backup power
  • water leak sensors
  • temperature and humidity sensors
  • door and window sensors
  • smoke and carbon monoxide alerts
  • whether someone can respond if an alert comes in

For the broader setup, see my guide to vacation home remote monitoring.

How To Judge An Early Prime Day Camera Deal

Do not judge the deal only by the percent off.

Before buying, check:

  • Is this the current model? Older models can still be good, but the discount should reflect that.
  • Is the Sync Module included? This matters for Blink local storage and multi-camera setups.
  • How many cameras are in the bundle? Some deals look similar but include different quantities.
  • Does it require a subscription for what you want? This is especially important with Ring.
  • Is it battery-powered, wired, or plug-in? Battery cameras are easier to place but require battery management.
  • Will Wi-Fi reach the camera location? A cheap outdoor camera is not useful if the signal is weak.
  • What happens if the internet goes down? Cloud-dependent cameras may lose much of their usefulness.

A good deal is not just a lower price. It is the right hardware for the way you plan to use it.

My Take

If I were buying during the early Prime Day sale, I would look at Blink first for budget outdoor cameras and places where local storage matters.

I would look at Ring first for a simple doorbell camera or a household that already uses Ring Protect and wants everything in one app.

I would not buy either one expecting a professional local camera system. That is not what these are.

These are easy consumer cameras. If the sale price is good and the subscription/storage tradeoff matches what you want, they can be worth buying. If you are only buying because the deal looks big, slow down and do the subscription math first.

Early Prime Day Ring and Blink Deals To Check

Published on June 5, 2026
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Door and window sensor on a vacation home entryway for remote monitoring alerts
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Door and Window Sensors for a Vacation Home: What to Monitor First

Door and window sensors are usually sold as security devices, hooked to alarm systems.

That is true, but when integrated into broader systems, they can do much more. For a vacation home, a door sensor is not just there to tell you someone broke in. It can tell you that a cleaner arrived, a contractor left, a guest forgot to close the back door, a garage entry door is still open, or a window is unsecured while you are hours away.

That makes door and window sensors for a vacation home less about building a security system and more about solving a simple problem: you are not there to see whether the house is secured.

Quick Answer: Where Should You Put Door and Window Sensors in a Vacation Home?

The first door and window sensors in a vacation home should go on the entry points most likely to be used, forgotten, or vulnerable: main entry doors, garage doors, basement entrances, sliding doors, and windows that are easy to access or commonly left open. If the home has guests, cleaners, contractors, or seasonal use, sensors can also help confirm that people came and went when expected.

Location Why It Matters Priority
Main entry door Most common entry point High
Garage entry door Often forgotten or left unsecured High
Sliding door Easy to leave unlocked or partly open High
Basement or side entrance Less visible both inside and outside the house High
Accessible windows Useful for ground-floor or deck-level openings Medium
Rarely opened upper windows Usually less urgent unless they are often left open Low

Why Door Sensors Matter When Nobody Is There

While these same ideas apply at home, in your primary residence, you usually notice if a door is open for too long. You feel the draft. You hear the alarm. You see the light. You walk past it.

In a vacation home, none of that helps if you are not there. You need more help and might prioritize investment there over a place you are at more often.

A door left open for a few minutes may not matter. A door left open overnight, during a storm, during freezing weather, or between guest stays is a different problem. It can mean water, animals, theft risk, heating or cooling loss, or just the unpleasant discovery that the house was not secured when you thought it was.

Door sensors are useful because they answer a basic question:

Is the house closed when it is supposed to be closed?

That sounds boring. It is also exactly the kind of thing you want to know from far away.

The First Doors To Monitor

You could put a sensor on everything. But thatg can get cost-prohibitive. Start with the doors that actually matter.

Main Entry Door

The main entry door is the obvious first sensor. It tells you when someone arrives, when someone leaves, and whether the door is still open after it should have closed.

If you use the home yourself, this may not seem pressing to know who opens and closes it. If cleaners, guests, relatives, or contractors use the property, it becomes much more useful.

Garage Door And Garage Entry Door

Garages are easy to overlook because they are not always treated like part of the living space. But a garage can contain tools, stored items, mechanical equipment, access to the house, or vulnerable plumbing, not to mention an actual car.

If the garage has a person-door into the house, monitor that too. It is often not as secured as your front door. A garage door sensor tells you whether the garage is open. A door sensor on the interior garage entry tells you whether someone entered the home from the garage.

Sliding Doors

Sliding doors are worth monitoring because they are easy to leave slightly open and easy to forget about, especially on decks, patios, and lake or mountain houses where people are constantly going in and out. They also, because of their design, are a weak point should someone try to break them to enter.

They are also common access points for guests, kids, cleaners, and anyone using outdoor space.

Basement, Side, And Utility Entrances

These doors may be less visible, which makes them more important. A basement or side door can be left open without anyone noticing from the street or main living area.

If there is a door you would not see from the front of a building, it probably deserves a sensor.

Which Windows Are Worth Monitoring?

Window sensors are useful, but you should again, be selective.

Not every window needs a sensor. If a second-floor window is rarely opened and not realistically accessible, it may not be the first priority. If a ground-floor bedroom window is often opened, faces a deck, or is easy to reach, that is different.

I would prioritize:

  • ground-floor windows
  • windows near decks or porches
  • basement windows
  • windows often opened by guests
  • windows in rooms that are easy to forget
  • windows near valuable equipment or storage

The goal is not to make a perfect diagram of every opening. The goal is to catch the openings most likely to matter.

Vacation Rental vs. Private Second Home

The right sensor setup depends on how the property is used.

For a private second home, door and window sensors are mostly about peace of mind and early warning. You want to know whether something changed while you were away.

For a vacation rental, the situation is more complicated. You may want to know when cleaners arrive, when guests check in, whether a door is left open, or whether someone entered a utility area they should not be using. But you also need to think about guest privacy and disclosure.

Privacy

Outdoor cameras and entry sensors are usually easier to justify than indoor cameras. Door sensors can provide useful operational information without recording people inside the home. You also have occupancy sensors, which detect if someone is in a space without any more details.

That is one reason I like sensors for this job. They tell you what happened without turning the house into a surveillance project.

Sensors vs. Cameras

Cameras and sensors answer different questions.

Device What It Tells You Limitation
Door sensor A door opened, closed, or stayed open Does not show who did it
Window sensor A window opened, closed, or was left open Only covers that window
Presence Sensor Someone is in a space Accuracy can be limited
Camera Who or what is visible in the camera view Can miss activity outside its angle and can raise privacy issues
Smart lock Lock status, entry codes, and access history Does not always prove the door is physically closed

A smart lock can tell you the lock is engaged. A door sensor can tell you whether the door is closed. A presence sensor can tell you if someone is occupying a space. Those are not always the same thing.

For a vacation home, I like the combination: smart lock for access, door sensor for open/closed status, a presence sensor to specifically identify individuals in strategic spaces and exterior camera for context.

What Kind of Door and Window Sensors Should You Buy?

I would not start with the fanciest sensor/ I would start with sensors that fit the smart-home system you already use and are reliable enough to place on the doors that matter.

If you already use a platform like Home Assistant, it can combine sensors from multiple systems. Whether you use Ring, Aqara, YoLink, SmartThings or another smart-home system, compatibility matters more than brand loyalty. A sensor that sends alerts through the system you actually check is more useful than a technically better sensor that lives in an app you ignore.

For a basic setup, look for:

  • reliable open/close alerts
  • good battery life
  • low-battery warnings
  • support for your existing hub or app
  • enough range for garages, basements, or detached spaces
  • an alert history so you can see when someone came and went

For long-range or detached spaces, systems like YoLink-style sensors can be interesting. For Home Assistant or Zigbee setups, Aqara offers a popular budget item. For alarm-system users, the best answer may be to use the sensors that tie into the monitored system you already have.

What Alerts Should Actually Notify You?

The biggest mistake with smart-home alerts is sending yourself too many of them.

If every door opening sends a push notification, you will eventually stop caring. That is especially true if guests, cleaners, or contractors are using the property.

Start by making a list of things you want to know, and when you want to log them, or get alerted.

Useful Immediate Alerts

  • a door opens when nobody is expected to be there
  • a door remains open for more than a few minutes
  • a garage door is still open at night
  • a basement or side door opens unexpectedly
  • a window opens while the home is supposed to be empty

Useful Logged Events

  • cleaner arrived
  • cleaner left
  • contractor entered
  • guest checked in
  • guest checked out

Not everything needs to buzz your phone immediately. Some information is useful as history. Some information is urgent.

The trick is knowing the difference.

What To Do When A Sensor Goes Off

A sensor alert is only useful if it connects to a response.

If a door opens unexpectedly, you may check a camera. If a door stays open, you may call a guest, cleaner, neighbor, or property manager. If a window opens while the house is empty, you may need someone to inspect the property.

Before relying on sensors, decide who can act:

  • a neighbor with a key
  • a local property manager
  • a cleaner or caretaker
  • a family member nearby
  • a contractor who already has access
  • local emergency services if there is a real security issue

The point is not to know about a problem faster and then stare helplessly at your phone. The point is to know early enough that someone can do something.

How Door And Window Sensors Fit Into A Vacation Home Monitoring Setup

Door and window sensors are one aspect of monitoring.

They do not replace leak sensors, temperature sensors, smoke and carbon monoxide alerts, cameras, or backup power for your network. They answer a different question: whether the house is physically open or closed when you are not there.

For the broader system, see my guide to vacation home remote monitoring.

If you are still building the rest of the setup, these are the other pieces I would think about:

The Bottom Line On Door And Window Sensors For Vacation Homes

Door and window sensors are not the most glamorous smart-home devices. That is part of their appeal.

They answer simple, practical questions: Did someone open the door? Did they close it? Is the garage still open? Is that window unsecured? Did the cleaner come and go? Did a contractor enter the house?

For a vacation home, those small bits of information can matter a lot. You are not trying to watch everything. You are trying to know when something important changed.

Start with the doors people actually use, the windows most likely to be left open, and the entry points you would worry about if you were not there for a week.

Frequently Asked Questions About Door and Window Sensors for a Vacation Home

Where should I put door sensors in a vacation home?

Start with the main entry door, garage entry door, sliding doors, basement entrances, side doors, and any door commonly used by guests, cleaners, contractors, or family members.

Do I need window sensors on every window?

No. Prioritize ground-floor windows, basement windows, windows near decks or porches, and windows that are often opened or easy to forget. You can assess based on how hard/easy it is to access that window from the outside.

Are door sensors better than cameras?

They do different jobs. Door sensors tell you whether a door opened or stayed open. Cameras show visual context. For a vacation home, the best setup may use both, especially at exterior entrances.

Can door sensors tell me if a guest or cleaner arrived?

Yes. Door sensors can show when an entry door opened and closed. If paired with smart locks or access codes, they can be part of a useful guest, cleaner, or contractor access log.

What should happen if a door sensor goes off while I am away?

Have a response plan before the alert happens. That may mean checking a camera, calling a guest or cleaner, contacting a neighbor, or asking a property manager to inspect the house.

Published on June 1, 2026
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The Great Migration: When Moving Day Comes Around for Your Server

In New York City, from colonial times to the mid-20th century, May 1st was “Moving Day”, when the majority of leases in the city would expire and much of the city would pick up and move.

Every few years, it is time to update my servers. While servers require regular bug fixes, every few years, it is time to clean out the cruft. Just as people move because of changes in conditions and for new opportunities, the neighborhood that is the internet has become a noisier dirtier place.

Why Your Server Needs a New Neighborhood

The world changes so much in between major upgrades. Now we have AI bots scraping the internet, hammering websites and using up resources, requiring new solutions. We didn’t need a heavy deadbolt to keep the bots out, a simple lock would do. Moving isn’t just about a new view; it’s about surviving the new climate of the web.

I could just fix things that are worn, sometimes you just need complete replacement. Even with the same specs, this ensures a clean start, and a better server.

When it comes to home servers, moves usually happen when I am upgrading the hardware. But when it comes to my VPSes, which are hosted online, I tend to build a new server, migrate to it, and then shut down the old one. It also allows me to reexamine and refresh myself on things that may have developed in the interim. Review new software options, new features, configuration settings.

So, how do you go about this.

Packing Your Digital Boxes: The Audit Before the Move

  • Inventory the services you have.  Docker containers, databases, servers. It is not just the services, but what they are used for.
  • Toss out the junk you don’t need anymore…old software that isn’t active, cron jobs that don’t need to run.

Security and Monitoring: The Modern Dilemma of Convenience vs. Control

In the modern world, security gets harder and harder for the average person. There is a reason why people are turning to companies like Cloudflare to handle it for them. Cloudflare does offer a generous free plan, but it adds a dependency not under your control, and a free plan can so easily turn into a paid trap. Even though my firewall has held for many years, it lacks more modern tools to help me manage it, as I still do everything in a text window. For the same reason that people use Cloudflare, I don’t always have the time to get down into the code, and need the ability to do quick monitoring on the go.

When a Total Rebuild is the Only Cure

This is a great time to review new operating systems, new servers, and if sticking with the same, new configurations. If you never rebuild anything, you also forget how your system works.

In the end, you will have a brand new server, ready to face new challenges and you’ll be set for a few years. And as I work on this, I will be commenting on some of those tools.

 

Published on May 6, 2026
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Elegoo’s Promised CANVAS Upgrade Is Finally Coming to the Centauri Carbon

After months of controversy and growing skepticism about it ever coming out, Elegoo’s long-promised CANVAS multi-color upgrade for the original Centauri Carbon has finally gone on sale.  The surprise? The official launch price is just $55, a far cry from what people expected.

The Backstory

The internet was abuzz when the Centauri Carbon came out. A CoreXY 3D Printer with a $300 list price with an enclosed chamber. And with a promised future multi-filament upgrade to print multiple colors as part of the same print.

The Centauri Carbon sold a lot of units when it released in Spring of 2025, but the multi-filament system never materialized. Elegoo released the Centauri Carbon 2 in January…so only months about the release of their big hit. The Centauri Carbon 2 is a refinement of the original Carbon, with:

  • reinforced body to reduce vibration
  • upgraded belts, motors, and pulleys to increase smoothness
  • redesigned extruder
  • improved hotend
  • improved cooling system and stronger fans
  • better included build plate
  • quieter motors reducing sound
  • the multi-color system, called CANVAS, on day 1.

That meant an improved version of the printer that Elegoo shipped to people while still refining it was suddenly no longer a production model. Pre-orders of the Carbon vs the later production models came with improvements and fixes, leading some to say they were using early adopters as beta testers. And now, without offering the promised accessory, they had released a version 2. That produced concerns that the promised multi-color support would never materialize, and that replacement parts for the original Carbon would dry up quickly.

Prusa, a long standard in the industry for open printers, offers upgrade kits. You can keep buying the improved components and turning your version 1 into a version 2, and so on. Considering how close the Carbon and Carbon 2 are and how many people bought them, and the short lifecycle of the original, it is surprising that Elegoo or third party hardware manufacturers wouldn’t consider supporting some of the improvements of the Carbon 2 on the original.

Elegoo apologized and insisted they had some issues, but they still intended on completing the system for the original Centauri, and offered an apology gift, a choice between a $50 coupon at their store valid for 3 months, an $80 discount on the Carbon, or a year long extension on the warranty, excluding consumable parts. It was starting to look as if they’d never offer the item. And they took a lot of heat for it.

On Monday, I woke up to see not only had it gone live, but the initial pre-order window for May delivery was already sold out, with shipping for the second round to be in June. And the price… $55. As of the evening, shipping dates for new orders were at end of July.But scandal hit rather quickly, at least the sort of thing the internet calls a scandal.

At a recent 3d printing event in Boston, Elegoo’s booth had a Centauri Carbon with the CANVAS system on display, and promised that units were shipping to warehouses around the world, and it would go on sale soon. A page went up, with a price of $150. Then the page went down. Several people get advance units to look at, so we got some ideas of what it was. Then the big reveal at $55, and some advance reviews started to leak out, very slowly.

What We Know about the CANVAS upgrade

This isn’t just installing a unit and plugging it in. Early reviews of the item reveal you have to perform some major surgery on the printer to upgrade it. The sheer amount of parts is why most people thought it would be a lot more than $55.

  • The CANVAS unit is mechanically identical to the one used on the CC2, but has a different circuit board.
  • It uses the same spool holders as the CC2, but it supplies adapter brackets to mount them as there aren’t the same holes to install them as are on the CC2
  • A new toolhead circuit board has to be installed. It contains ports for three new sensors. A filament detector sensor on the printhead, a filament cutter sensor, and a front cover removal sensor….all features present on the CC2.
  • There is no opportunity to upgrade to the hotends and the higher temperature rating that the CC2 has.
  • The improved CC2 extruder is supplied, replacing the original extruder. I had several problems with the extruder on the CC1.

Even without wanting the CANVAS unit, the new sensors and extruder are improvements of their own, and would probably cost nearly as much on their own for other printers.

What We Don’t Know

There is one downside to the CANVAS upgrade. The original Carbon had a glass lid that served to enclose the unit when printing filaments that required it. The CC2 has a large plastic hood. Visually, this is significantly less elegant than a glass top. The Carbon upgrade prevents the original glass lid from being used, and the upgrade provides no cover, which means you have a choice between not printing those materials or not installing the upgrade.

We don’t know if Elegoo has a solution to this problem, but we know either Elegoo, hobbyists, or both will figure out a solution to that problem. My personal prediction is that hobbyists will come up with something, as they usually do.  But Elegoo will have to say something. They mismanaged this situation, and they are trying to recover, partially by selling the pre-orders at such a low price.

We don’t know enough yet about the reliability of the solution overall, although it is the same basic design as the CC2, so the reviews of that should bear out for this version. As reviews trickle in, and I await my delivery date, we will see what news develops.

Is it Worth Buying?

This upgrade doesn’t turn a Carbon into a Carbon 2, but it gives a variety of upgrades present on the two. If you bought the Carbon for the multi-color printing, it is a no-brainer at the price. If you bought the Carbon to do filaments that required the lid to be on, I’d still pre-order the device and trust a solution will come. And in the meantime, you get the other upgrades.

Published on April 28, 2026
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Yuzu Keycaps Review: Custom Keycaps for Weird Keyboard Layouts

This week I opened a box I had been waiting weeks for: my first fully custom keycap set.

Quick Answer: Is Yuzu Keycaps Worth It?

Yuzu Keycaps is worth considering if you need a custom keycap set for an unusual keyboard layout, want colors or legends that standard sets do not offer, or are trying to build something more personal than an off-the-shelf kit. It is not the cheapest way to buy keycaps, but the set I ordered looked professional enough that you would not know it was custom-made.

Best For Why Yuzu Works
Unusual keyboard layouts You can design around nonstandard key sizes and legends
Custom color schemes Yuzu offers a large color library instead of a fixed kit
PBS or PFF profiles Useful if you want newer profile options that are not common in mass-market sets
One-off personal designs Good for making a set that does not look like everyone else’s keyboard
Budget keycap shopping Probably not the best fit; generic sets are cheaper

Why Buy Custom Keycaps

If you’ve ever bought a keyboard with an unusual layout—or just wanted something no one else has—you’ve probably run into the same problem I did: standard keycap sets don’t fit your needs.

I’m a collector of keyboards and I have:

  • Ortholinear keyboards
  • Split Keyboards
  • Keyboards with Enter, Tab, Shift, and Backspace keys in atypical sizes
  • Low Profile Keyboards

But beyond that, sometimes you want to create something no one else has, or some other variation. The design sites for these services are relatively easy, but putting together an entire design is not always easy.

The Options Explored

I opted to order from Yuzu, who offers Cherry, KAM, and what prompted me to order, the recent introduction of PBS and PFF profiles. PFF is a low profile keycap profile that only recently was designed. They also offer a lot of different color choices.

There are two other purchase alternatives:

  • FKKeycaps, who offers custom MDA, Cherry, XDA, DSA, LPF, SLK and MBK. SLK and LBF are also low profile keycaps that work with MX style low profile switches, and MBK, which only works on Choc V1 switches. FKKeycaps only seems to offer one single color of keycap.
  • Thockfactory, who offer only Cherry profile. Their price for Cherry is lower than the competition, but they don’t allow for custom layouts, only several presets, but they allow a variety of colors.

The Profiles Explained

If you look down at your keyboard now, you may notice one of two things. The keycaps are all the same shape and height. This is called uniform. Where each row is a different shape and height, that would be a sculpted profile.  Typists who rely on the subtle angle changes of a sculpted profile to orient their fingers may take a short time to adjust.

Standard Switch Profiles

  • Cherry –  one of the most recognizable and popular sculpted keycap profiles. It has a maximum height of 9.4mm with a cylindrical top.
  • DSA – uniform profile with a height of 7.6mm and a spherical top
  • XDA –  uniform profile with a 9.1mm height and spherical top as well as a larger surface area than DSA
  • KAM – uniform profile with a 9.1mm height and spherical top and a surface area in between DSA and XDA
  • MDA – sculpted profile with a maximum height of 12.36mm and a spherical top
  • SLK – A 7.5mm uniform spherical keycap that extends below the typical bottom of a switch
  • PBS – uniform profile with a height of 7.5mm tall, which makes it similar in height to DSA, but combines cylindrical front-to-back curvature with a spherical scoop

Low Profile Switch Profiles

Generally speaking, low profile keycaps are uniform.

  • PFF – 5mm tall, using the same cylindrical front-to-back curvature with a spherical scoop used in PBS, which makes it one of the few low profile keycaps that isn’t flat
  • LPF and MBK – are only compatible with Choc V1 low profile switches. Choc V1 switches can be lower than low profile MX switches, which PFF supports, but there is a lot less variety in general.

Yuzu: A Review

In terms of flexibility, Yuzu can’t be beat with over 300 colors. This allows you to pick colors, fonts, icons and graphics to create sets that no one has.

It is the ultimate in customization for keyboard enthusiasts. I placed an order when they started offering PBS, and received my first custom design a few weeks later…the delay due to the popularity of the new offering creating a backlog. You would not be able to tell these were custom keycaps. They look as good as the commercial ones. Why? Because Yuzu is a project of Keyreative, a commercial keycap manufacturer. Keyreative started out as an OEM manufacturer of keycaps before branching out into direct sales, so they are already the manufacturer of many keycap sets.

At the end, custom keycaps aren’t as cheap as generic sets, but they are comparable with more boutique sets. I opted for the below custom set, which is based on the popular Space Cadet design. Space Cadet was a keyboard designed in 1978 and used on LISP machines at MIT. I made some mistakes on my first foray into this, but Yuzu created a professional grade set of keycaps for me at a price that is comparable to a high quality set.

 

A QAZ style keyboard with custom PBS keycaps based on the popular Space Cadet design

 

Published on April 23, 2026
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IPv6 Explained: Why Adoption Is Still Slow Decades Later

Most of us don’t just use the internet once a day — we’re constantly surrounded by connected devices. Phones, laptops, TVs, cameras, even appliances. And that number keeps growing.

At the center of all of it is the basic Internet Protocol (IP), which is what allows devices to talk to each other.

The current version most of the internet still relies on is IPv4. The problem is that IPv4 only supports about

Most of us don’t just use the internet once a day — we’re constantly surrounded by connected devices. Phones, laptops, TVs, cameras, even appliances. And that number keeps growing.

At the center of all of it is the basic Internet Protocol (IP), which is what allows devices to talk to each other.

The current version most of the internet still relies on is IPv4. The problem is that IPv4 only supports about 4,294,967,296 billion unique addresses — and in practice, even fewer than that.

  • Large blocks are reserved for special purposes
  • Early allocations gave organizations far more addresses than they needed
  • Devices are now always connected instead of sharing connections
  • Broadband adoption continues to expand globally

IPv6 has been around since the late 1990s and became a formal internet standard long before most people ever heard of it.  Despite this, adoption has not moved forward very quickly. This expands addressing to 340 undecillion total addresses. What’s an undecillion? 10 to the 36th power- a trillion trillion trillion.

IPV6 and IPV4 can coexist, but one is not backward compatible to the other. You can run a ‘dual stack’ connection, that connects over both versions. Usually this will be IPV6 with an IPV4 fallback.  A protocol called ‘Happy Eyeballs’ is used to pick the best option of the two.

Why Has IPv6 Adoption Been So Slow?

IPv6 was introduced in the late 1990s. We are now decades into its existence, and yet most home networks — and a surprising number of enterprise ones — still lean heavily on IPv4.

Yes, we “ran out” of IPv4 addresses on paper. But instead of forcing a painful transition, the industry engineered its way around the problem. Most users wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between using IPV4 or IPV6.

Network Address Translation

Network Address Translation (NAT) became the default. Instead of every device needing a public IP address, entire homes — and even large networks — now sit behind a single one. Your router quietly handles the translation, and for most users, it just works. It is only users who want to host their own services who care as much about having publicly routable IP addresses.

That one workaround removed the urgency that IPv6 depended on. If nothing is visibly broken, nobody is motivated to replace it. Businesses had little motivation to do so, leaving it as important to a much smaller group of people.

Internet Service Providers

Most Internet Service Providers support IPV6, but good luck getting support. Performance is inconsistent. So, your mileage as a customer may vary. Over the last few years, I have turned on and turned off IPV6 at various times, due to reliability issues, but despite limited adoption, it continues to get more reliable and hopefully will continue to do so in the future.

The one exception here is mobile. Mobile providers, especially in Asia, are going native IPV6 mostly due to the need for increasing address space. This is slowly making its way to carriers in the rest of the world. So, considering that, it may be what has caused home ISPs to improve, and may drive additional business adoption as well.

Major platforms like Google and Facebook already see a significant percentage of traffic over IPv6.

Advantages

IPv6 is objectively better in a lot of ways:

  • Vast address space
  • End-to-end connectivity
  • Simpler routing (in theory)

But here’s the problem: there’s no killer feature that users notice.

Switching to IPv6 doesn’t:

  • make your internet faster
  • improve your Wi-Fi
  • unlock some must-have app or other features

IPV6 can be faster than IPV4, but that isn’t strictly because of the protocol. It depends. You may find that one protocol or the other is faster depending on the route your traffic takes.

Should You Enable IPv6?

By default, whether you have a commercial router or a homebuilt one like I do, it is usually very easy to turn on IPV6. If it doesn’t immediately work, you may have to google and adjust a few settings for your ISP. At this point, you can judge for yourself whether or not it is beneficial. Keep it on unless you have issues and see what happens.

If you want a full experiment, turn off IPV4 just to see what happens. You may, like on mobile, not even notice.

Why has IPv6 adoption been so slow?
IPv6 adoption has been slow because IPv4 never actually stopped working. Technologies like NAT allowed networks to stretch limited IPv4 addresses, removing urgency. Since IPv6 offers few noticeable benefits to everyday users, most networks continue to run both protocols without fully transitioning.

Published on April 20, 2026
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Can’t Buy a New Router But You Can Build One

Recently, the FCC in the United States banned foreign made routers made by some of the most popular manufacturers…which means…well, pretty much all not already approved from popular brands. It means you can continue to buy current routers, but any new technology…not so much. The ruling is something of a joke. For one, manufacturers can just continue to sell old models of routers without new innovation.

The argument is that foreign entities can compromise these devices, however, they could compromise the existing ones, and even the new ones…they could deploy updates at any time and open a hole that wasn’t there previously. So, what is the solution? For me, that was build my own. I had gone back and forth on this over the years.

For one, if you wanted to stay with the most common routers, there exist many third party firmwares for consumer routers. These are open source options that give you more control, like dd-wrt, and openwrt. Routers are effectively little computers, and very limited ones at that. These routers have:

  • low power and relatively slow CPUs
  • extremely limited RAM
  • limited space to store additional programs

There is a lot of room therefore to move up. Instead of using a purpose-built router appliance, you can simply replace it with a low-power PC running router software Modern low power CPUs like the N100/N150 series are perfect for this function. You can use a mini PC, or there are manufacturers offering ones with specifications specifically in mind to act as firewall and router appliances. A more powerful processor gives your new router plenty of room for advanced networking functions.

To run my router, I chose Opnsense. Opnsense is an open source firewall and router, with a load of features and installable extensions.

  •  Enterprise-grade firewall controls
  • VPN support
  • traffic shaping
  • DNS filtering
  • detailed monitoring and logging

The default gives you a robust and secure router, and beyond that, any enhancement you can imagine can be added. And because it is modular, you can install additional functionality through plugins. This makes it far more flexible than most commercial routers.

What could be considered an advantage of building your own router is separating routing from Wi-Fi. It means you can upgrade and maintain these systems separately. These systems don’t actually have to live together. By addressing each piece individually, you can have better quality equipment, more reliability, and easier upgrades. If Wi-Fi standards change (and they always do), I can simply replace the access point without touching the router.

My Opnsense instance handles a lot more than a simple embedded appliance can. It:

  • Secure Site to Site VPN to multiple locations
  • Private VPN for my laptop and phone when on the go
  • Encryption for self-hosted services
  • Advanced firewall rules
  • DNS Management
  • Network isolation for IoT devices

For technically inclined users, it is relatively easy to get started and expand and learn over time. I cannot say how many times I have dug deep into the options when I added those VPNs, when I moved securing LetEncrypt certifications for my homelab onto the router, and more.

It isn’t just a long term solution, it is an adventure.

 

 

 

 

Published on April 6, 2026
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UPS battery backup powering a modem and Wi-Fi router during a power outage
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Best UPS Battery Backup for Routers and Modems (Keep Your Internet Running During Power Outages)

If your internet connection disappears the moment the power flickers, the problem usually isn’t your internet provider.

It’s your power.

Most home networks rely on several small devices that all require electricity: a modem, a router, sometimes Wi-Fi access points, switches, or security cameras. When power fails, every one of those devices shuts off instantly.

A UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) solves this problem by providing instant battery backup. When electricity fails, the UPS switches to battery power automatically and keeps your networking equipment running.

Because routers and modems draw very little power, even a modest UPS can often keep your internet working for an hour or more.

Quick pick: For most homes, I would start with the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD. It has enough capacity for a modem, router, switch, access point, and a little room to grow without jumping to a giant UPS.

Do not plug in a laser printer, space heater, gaming PC, or anything high-draw unless the UPS is sized for it. For this guide, the goal is simple: keep the internet online when the power flickers or goes out.

Best UPS Battery Backup for Routers and Modems

If your goal is keeping your internet connection alive during a power outage, these UPS models provide reliable backup power and strong electrical protection.

Best UPS Battery Backup for Routers and Modems

If your goal is keeping your internet connection alive during a power outage, these are the UPS models I would consider first.

UPS Model Best For Capacity Why Pick It Check Price
CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD Best overall UPS 1000VA / 600W The best balance for most home networks: modem, router, switch, access point, and some room to grow. Check price on Amazon
APC BR1500MS2 Larger home networks 1500VA / 900W Better for network closets, multiple access points, switches, cameras, or a small rack. Check price on Amazon
CyberPower EC650LCD Best budget UPS 650VA / 390W A good low-cost pick if you mainly want to keep a modem and router online. Check price on Amazon
APC BE600M1 Small setups 600VA / 330W Compact, simple, and easy to tuck near a modem/router shelf. Check price on Amazon
Eaton 5S700LCD Premium reliability 700VA / 420W The one I would look at if build quality and power protection matter more than the lowest price. Check price on Amazon

Can a UPS Keep Wi-Fi Working During a Power Outage?

Yes. A properly sized UPS can keep your modem, router, Wi-Fi access point, and small network switch running during short power outages. The runtime depends on the size of the battery backup and how much equipment is plugged into it.

For many home setups, the goal is not to run the entire house. It is to keep the internet connection alive long enough for brief outages, remote work, smart-home devices, security cameras, and alerts to keep functioning.

If your internet provider’s equipment outside the home still has power, a UPS can often keep your home network online. If the neighborhood equipment is also down, the UPS may keep your router running but not preserve the internet connection.

My buying rule: if you only have a modem and router, do not overthink it. A compact 600VA–650VA UPS is often enough. If you have a switch, access point, security camera base station, or smart-home hub, I would usually move up to a 1000VA unit.

That is why the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD is the safest pick for most people. It is not the cheapest option, but it avoids the common mistake of buying the smallest UPS and then immediately running out of outlets or runtime.

Why Routers and Modems Benefit From a UPS

Networking equipment consumes surprisingly little electricity.

Typical power usage looks like this:

  • Modem: 10–20 watts
  • Router: 10–25 watts
  • Wi-Fi access point: 10–20 watts
  • Small network switch: 5–20 watts

Because the power draw is low, UPS batteries can keep networking equipment running far longer than desktop computers or gaming systems.

A UPS also protects networking hardware from:

  • power outages
  • voltage drops
  • power surges
  • short power interruptions

If you work from home, rely on internet-connected security cameras, or have smart home devices that stop working when the network goes down, a UPS can make a bigger difference than you might expect.

If those devices are part of a second-home or vacation-home monitoring setup, the router and modem are not just convenience devices. They are a vital part of your alert system. I cover the broader setup in my guide to vacation home remote monitoring.

Best Overall UPS for Routers and Modems: CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD

The CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD is the one I would buy first for a typical home network.

It is more UPS than a bare modem-and-router setup strictly needs, but that is the point. Most home networks grow. A modem and router become a modem, router, switch, access point, smart-home hub, and maybe a camera bridge. A little extra capacity keeps the UPS useful after the next upgrade.

  • 1000VA / 600W capacity
  • Pure sine wave output
  • Automatic Voltage Regulation
  • LCD status display
  • Enough headroom for many modem/router/switch/access-point setups

Buy this if: you want one UPS that should handle a normal home network without being huge.

Skip it if: you only need the cheapest possible backup for one modem and one router.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best UPS for Larger Home Networks: APC BR1500MS2

The APC BR1500MS2 is the step-up pick for people whose “router setup” has turned into a small network closet.

If you have multiple access points, a switch, security-camera gear, a small NAS, or a rack shelf full of boxes, the extra capacity and outlets start to matter. This is probably overkill for a basic modem and router, but it makes sense once the network becomes something the household depends on.

  • 1500VA / 900W capacity
  • 10 outlets
  • Strong voltage regulation
  • USB charging ports
  • More room for network closets and larger setups

Buy this if: you have more than just a modem and router, or you want longer runtime.

Skip it if: your internet setup lives on a small shelf and only has two devices.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Budget UPS for Routers and Modems: CyberPower EC650LCD

The CyberPower EC650LCD is the practical budget pick.

If your problem is simple — brief outages knock out the modem and router, then everything takes several minutes to reboot — this is the kind of UPS that solves it without turning the project into a home-lab upgrade.

  • 650VA / 390W capacity
  • Compact design
  • LCD battery display
  • Energy-saving outlets

Buy this if: you want an affordable UPS for a modem and router.

Skip it if: you also need to support multiple access points, a PoE switch, a NAS, or a network closet.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Best Compact UPS for Small Setups: APC BE600M1

The APC BE600M1 is a small UPS designed for simple networking setups.

  • 600VA / 330W capacity
  • compact footprint
  • USB charging port
  • reliable APC design

If you only want to keep a modem and router running, this compact UPS can do the job without taking up much space. It is especially appealing if your equipment lives on a shelf, in a corner, or anywhere a larger UPS would be awkward.

Check the latest price

Best Premium UPS for Networking Equipment: Eaton 5S700LCD

The Eaton 5S700LCD is known for excellent build quality and strong electrical protection.

  • 700VA / 420W capacity
  • excellent surge protection
  • LCD display
  • durable internal components

If you want something a bit more robust than the usual consumer UPS options, Eaton is a respected name. This model is a good fit for buyers who care about electrical protection quality as much as runtime.

Check the latest price

How Long a UPS Can Keep Your Internet Running

UPS runtime depends on how much electricity your devices use.

Because routers and modems consume very little power, runtime can be surprisingly long:

  • small UPS: 30–60 minutes
  • mid-size UPS: 1–2 hours
  • larger UPS: several hours depending on load

If your ISP’s neighborhood equipment stays online during an outage, that can mean your internet keeps working long after the lights go out. Of course, if the provider’s own local infrastructure loses power, your UPS cannot fix that. But for many brief outages and localized electrical issues inside your home, it absolutely helps.

How Much UPS Capacity Do You Actually Need for a Router and Modem?

This is one of the biggest mistakes people make when shopping for a UPS. They assume they need a huge battery backup because that is what they would need for a gaming PC or home server.

For a modem and router, that usually is not true.

If your combined load is only 20 to 40 watts, even a modest UPS can provide meaningful runtime. The bigger units are useful if:

  • you want much longer runtime
  • you also want to power access points, switches, or cameras
  • you want extra overhead and flexibility

For a simple setup, the budget and compact models are often enough. For more complicated home networks, the larger units become easier to justify.

UPS Features That Matter for Networking Equipment

When choosing a UPS for routers and modems, these features matter most:

  • Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR) to stabilize power fluctuations
  • pure sine wave output for sensitive electronics
  • surge protection for networking hardware
  • sufficient outlets for your modem, router, and other equipment

You do not necessarily need the most expensive UPS on the market, but you do want one that handles brownouts and voltage fluctuations gracefully. Those are often more common than full outages.

If you want to understand these features in more detail, see this guide to choosing a UPS with the right features.

If you are deciding between UPS models for a router, NAS, home server, or monitoring setup, that broader UPS feature guide goes deeper on AVR, PFC compatibility, USB shutdown, and replaceable batteries.

When a UPS Makes the Biggest Difference for Home Internet

A UPS battery backup is especially useful if:

  • power flickers frequently
  • you work from home
  • your security cameras rely on internet connectivity
  • your smart home devices depend on cloud services
  • your modem takes several minutes to come back online after a power outage

Even brief outages can lead to several minutes of downtime while a modem and router reboot. A UPS prevents that interruption entirely and can make your home internet feel much more reliable.

The same logic applies if your home network supports leak sensors, door and window sensors, smoke/CO alerts, or remote cameras. Those alerts are only useful if the network stays online long enough to send them. For more on that side of the setup, see my guides to Govee leak sensors, door and window sensors for a vacation home, and smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.

What I Would Buy

For most people, I would buy the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD. It has enough capacity for a normal home network, gives you room to add a switch or access point, and avoids the regret of buying the smallest possible UPS.

For a very simple modem-and-router setup, I would save money with the CyberPower EC650LCD or APC BE600M1.

For a larger network closet, I would move up to the APC BR1500MS2.

The main thing is not to put your entire office on the UPS just because there are empty outlets. Use it for the networking gear that keeps the house online. That is where a UPS gives you the most value for the least battery drain.

Which UPS Is Best for Your Router and Modem?

If you want the best balance of price, features, and runtime, the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD is the strongest overall choice for most people.

If you have a larger home network or want more runtime, the APC BR1500MS2 is a strong upgrade.

If you want a lower-cost solution, the CyberPower EC650LCD and APC BE600M1 are both sensible picks for simple setups.

And if you want a more premium UPS with a strong reputation for power protection, the Eaton 5S700LCD is worth a look.

For something as simple as keeping your router and modem online during a power outage, a UPS is one of the most practical upgrades you can make. Once you have one, it is hard to go back to watching your internet disappear every time the power blinks.

Published on March 29, 2026
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