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Yuzu Keycaps Review: The Best Way to Make Custom Keycaps in 2026

This week I opened a box I had been waiting weeks for: my first fully custom keycap set.

Why Buy Custom Keycaps

If you’ve ever bought a keyboard with an unusual layout—or just wanted something no one else has—you’ve probably run into the same problem I did: standard keycap sets don’t fit your needs.

I’m a collector of keyboards and I have:

  • Ortholinear keyboards
  • Split Keyboards
  • Keyboards with Enter, Tab, Shift, and Backspace keys in atypical sizes
  • Low Profile Keyboards

But beyond that, sometimes you want to create something no one else has, or some other variation. The design sites for these services are relatively easy, but putting together an entire design is not always easy.

The Options Explored

I opted to order from Yuzu, who offers Cherry, KAM, and what prompted me to order, the recent introduction of PBS and PFF profiles. PFF is a low profile keycap profile that only recently was designed. They also offer a lot of different color choices.

There are two other purchase alternatives:

  • FKKeycaps, who offers custom MDA, Cherry, XDA, DSA, LPF, SLK and MBK. SLK and LBF are also low profile keycaps that work with MX style low profile switches, and MBK, which only works on Choc V1 switches. FKKeycaps only seems to offer one single color of keycap.
  • Thockfactory, who offer only Cherry profile. Their price for Cherry is lower than the competition, but they don’t alow for custom layouts, only several presets, but they allow a variety of colors.

The Profiles Explained

If you look down at your keyboard now, you may notice one of two things. The keycaps are all the same shape and height. This is called uniform. Where each row is a different shape and height, that would be a sculpted profile.  Typists who rely on the subtle angle changes of a sculpted profile to orient their fingers may take a short time to adjust.

Standard Switch Profiles

  • Cherry –  one of the most recognizable and popular sculpted keycap profiles. It has a maximum height of 9.4mm with a cylindical top.
  • DSA – uniform profile with a height of 7.6mm and a spherical top
  • XDA –  uniform profile with a 9.1mm height and spherical top as well as a larger surface area than DSA
  • KAM – uniform profile with a 9.1mm height and spherical top and a surface area in between DSA and XDA
  • MDA – sculpted profile with a maximum height of 12.36mm and a spherical top
  • SLK – A 7.5mm uniform spherical keycap that extends below the typical bottom of a switch
  • PBS – uniform profile with a height of 7.5mm tall, which makes it similar in height to DSA, but combines cylindrical front-to-back curvature with a spherical scoop

Low Profile Switch Profiles

Generally speaking, low profile keycaps are uniform.

  • PFF – 5mm tall, using the same cylindrical front-to-back curvature with a spherical scoop used in PBS, which makes it one of the few low profile keycaps that isn’t flat
  • LPF and MBK – are only compatible with Choc V1 low profile switches. Choc V1 switches can be lower than low profile MX switches, which PFF supports, but there is a lot less variety in general.

Yuzu: A Review

In terms of flexibility, Yuzu can’t be beat with over 300 colors. This allows you to pick colors, fonts, icons and graphics to create sets that no one has.

It is the ultimate in customization for keyboard enthusiasts. I placed an order when they started offering PBS, and received my first custom design a few weeks later…the delay due to the popularity of the new offering creating a backlog. You would not be able to tell these were custom keycaps..they look as good as the commercial ones. Why? Because Yuzu is a project of Keyreative, a commercial keycap manufacturer. Keyreative started out as an OEM manufacturer of keycaps before branching out into direct sales, so they are already the manufacturer of many keycap sets.

At the end, custom keycaps aren’t as cheap as generic sets, but they are comparable with more boutique sets. I opted for the below custom set, which is based on the popular Space Cadet design. Space Cadet was a keyboard designed in 1978 and used on LISP machines at MIT. I made some mistakes on my first foray into this, but Yuzu created a professional grade set of keycaps for me at a price that is comparable to a high quality set.

 

A QAZ style keyboard with custom PBS keycaps based on the popular Space Cadet design

 

Published on April 23, 2026
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IPv6 Explained: Why Adoption Is Still Slow Decades Later

Most of us don’t just use the internet once a day — we’re constantly surrounded by connected devices. Phones, laptops, TVs, cameras, even appliances. And that number keeps growing.

At the center of all of it is the basic Internet Protocol (IP), which is what allows devices to talk to each other.

The current version most of the internet still relies on is IPv4. The problem is that IPv4 only supports about

Most of us don’t just use the internet once a day — we’re constantly surrounded by connected devices. Phones, laptops, TVs, cameras, even appliances. And that number keeps growing.

At the center of all of it is the basic Internet Protocol (IP), which is what allows devices to talk to each other.

The current version most of the internet still relies on is IPv4. The problem is that IPv4 only supports about 4,294,967,296 billion unique addresses — and in practice, even fewer than that.

  • Large blocks are reserved for special purposes
  • Early allocations gave organizations far more addresses than they needed
  • Devices are now always connected instead of sharing connections
  • Broadband adoption continues to expand globally

IPv6 has been around since the late 1990s and became a formal internet standard long before most people ever heard of it.  Despite this, adoption has not moved forward very quickly. This expands addressing to 340 undecillion total addresses. What’s an undecillion? 10 to the 36th power- a trillion trillion trillion.

IPV6 and IPV4 can coexist, but one is not backward compatible to the other. You can run a ‘dual stack’ connection, that connects over both versions. Usually this will be IPV6 with an IPV4 fallback.  A protocol called ‘Happy Eyeballs’ is used to pick the best option of the two.

Why Has IPv6 Adoption Been So Slow?

IPv6 was introduced in the late 1990s. We are now decades into its existence, and yet most home networks — and a surprising number of enterprise ones — still lean heavily on IPv4.

Yes, we “ran out” of IPv4 addresses on paper. But instead of forcing a painful transition, the industry engineered its way around the problem. Most users wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between using IPV4 or IPV6.

Network Address Translation

Network Address Translation (NAT) became the default. Instead of every device needing a public IP address, entire homes — and even large networks — now sit behind a single one. Your router quietly handles the translation, and for most users, it just works. It is only users who want to host their own services who care as much about having publicly routable IP addresses.

That one workaround removed the urgency that IPv6 depended on. If nothing is visibly broken, nobody is motivated to replace it. Businesses had little motivation to do so, leaving it as important to a much smaller group of people.

Internet Service Providers

Most Internet Service Providers support IPV6, but good luck getting support. Performance is inconsistent. So, your mileage as a customer may vary. Over the last few years, I have turned on and turned off IPV6 at various times, due to reliability issues, but despite limited adoption, it continues to get more reliable and hopefully will continue to do so in the future.

The one exception here is mobile. Mobile providers, especially in Asia, are going native IPV6 mostly due to the need for increasing address space. This is slowly making its way to carriers in the rest of the world. So, considering that, it may be what has caused home ISPs to improve, and may drive additional business adoption as well.

Major platforms like Google and Facebook already see a significant percentage of traffic over IPv6.

Advantages

IPv6 is objectively better in a lot of ways:

  • Vast address space
  • End-to-end connectivity
  • Simpler routing (in theory)

But here’s the problem: there’s no killer feature that users notice.

Switching to IPv6 doesn’t:

  • make your internet faster
  • improve your Wi-Fi
  • unlock some must-have app or other features

IPV6 can be faster than IPV4, but that isn’t strictly because of the protocol. It depends. You may find that one protocol or the other is faster depending on the route your traffic takes.

Should You Enable IPv6?

By default, whether you have a commercial router or a homebuilt one like I do, it is usually very easy to turn on IPV6. If it doesn’t immediately work, you may have to google and adjust a few settings for your ISP. At this point, you can judge for yourself whether or not it is beneficial. Keep it on unless you have issues and see what happens.

If you want a full experiment, turn off IPV4 just to see what happens. You may, like on mobile, not even notice.

Why has IPv6 adoption been so slow?
IPv6 adoption has been slow because IPv4 never actually stopped working. Technologies like NAT allowed networks to stretch limited IPv4 addresses, removing urgency. Since IPv6 offers few noticeable benefits to everyday users, most networks continue to run both protocols without fully transitioning.

Published on April 20, 2026
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Can’t Buy a New Router But You Can Build One

Recently, the FCC in the United States banned foreign made routers made by some of the most popular manufacturers…which means…well, pretty much all not already approved from popular brands. It means you can continue to buy current routers, but any new technology…not so much. The ruling is something of a joke. For one, manufacturers can just continue to sell old models of routers without new innovation.

The argument is that foreign entities can compromise these devices, however, they could compromise the existing ones, and even the new ones…they could deploy updates at any time and open a hole that wasn’t there previously. So, what is the solution? For me, that was build my own. I had gone back and forth on this over the years.

For one, if you wanted to stay with the most common routers, there exist many third party firmwares for consumer routers. These are open source options that give you more control, like dd-wrt, and openwrt. Routers are effectively little computers, and very limited ones at that. These routers have:

  • low power and relatively slow CPUs
  • extremely limited RAM
  • limited space to store additional programs

There is a lot of room therefore to move up. Instead of using a purpose-built router appliance, you can simply replace it with a low-power PC running router software Modern low power CPUs like the N100/N150 series are perfect for this function. You can use a mini PC, or there are manufacturers offering ones with specifications specifically in mind to act as firewall and router appliances. A more powerful processor gives your new router plenty of room for advanced networking functions.

To run my router, I chose Opnsense. Opnsense is an open source firewall and router, with a load of features and installable extensions.

  •  Enterprise-grade firewall controls
  • VPN support
  • traffic shaping
  • DNS filtering
  • detailed monitoring and logging

The default gives you a robust and secure router, and beyond that, any enhancement you can imagine can be added. And because it is modular, you can install additional functionality through plugins. This makes it far more flexible than most commercial routers.

What could be considered an advantage of building your own router is separating routing from Wi-Fi. It means you can upgrade and maintain these systems separately. These systems don’t actually have to live together. By addressing each piece individually, you can have better quality equipment, more reliability, and easier upgrades. If Wi-Fi standards change (and they always do), I can simply replace the access point without touching the router.

My Opnsense instance handles a lot more than a simple embedded appliance can. It:

  • Secure Site to Site VPN to multiple locations
  • Private VPN for my laptop and phone when on the go
  • Encryption for self-hosted services
  • Advanced firewall rules
  • DNS Management
  • Network isolation for IoT devices

For technically inclined users, it is relatively easy to get started and expand and learn over time. I cannot say how many times I have dug deep into the options when I added those VPNs, when I moved securing LetEncrypt certifications for my homelab onto the router, and more.

It isn’t just a long term solution, it is an adventure.

 

 

 

 

Published on April 6, 2026
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UPS battery backup powering a modem and Wi-Fi router during a power outage
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Best UPS Battery Backup for Routers and Modems (Keep Your Internet Running During Power Outages)

If your internet connection disappears the moment the power flickers, the problem usually isn’t your internet provider.

It’s your power.

Most home networks rely on several small devices that all require electricity: a modem, a router, sometimes Wi-Fi access points, switches, or security cameras. When power fails, every one of those devices shuts off instantly.

A UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) solves this problem by providing instant battery backup. When electricity fails, the UPS switches to battery power automatically and keeps your networking equipment running.

Because routers and modems draw very little power, even a modest UPS can often keep your internet working for an hour or more.

Best UPS Battery Backup for Routers and Modems

If your goal is keeping your internet connection alive during a power outage, these UPS models provide reliable backup power and strong electrical protection.

UPS Model Best For Capacity Check Price
CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD Best overall UPS 1000VA / 600W Check price
APC BR1500MS2 Larger home networks 1500VA / 900W Check price
CyberPower EC650LCD Best budget UPS 650VA / 390W Check price
APC BE600M1 Small setups 600VA / 330W Check price
Eaton 5S700LCD Premium reliability 700VA / 420W Check price

Note: Some models above are currently discounted during Amazon’s Big Spring Sale, including the APC BR1500MS2 and APC BE600M1.

Why Routers and Modems Benefit From a UPS

Networking equipment consumes surprisingly little electricity.

Typical power usage looks like this:

  • Modem: 10–20 watts
  • Router: 10–25 watts
  • Wi-Fi access point: 10–20 watts
  • Small network switch: 5–20 watts

Because the power draw is low, UPS batteries can keep networking equipment running far longer than desktop computers or gaming systems.

A UPS also protects networking hardware from:

  • power outages
  • voltage drops
  • power surges
  • short power interruptions

If you work from home, rely on internet-connected security cameras, or have smart home devices that stop working when the network goes down, a UPS can make a bigger difference than you might expect.

Best Overall UPS for Routers and Modems: CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD

The CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD is one of the most popular UPS units for home networking setups, and for good reason. It hits a sweet spot between price, capacity, and features.

  • 1000VA / 600W capacity
  • pure sine wave output
  • Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR)
  • LCD status display

This is more UPS than most people strictly need for a modem and router, but that is part of the appeal. The extra capacity can translate into longer runtime, and it leaves room to protect a switch, access point, or small NAS as well.

Check the latest price

Best UPS for Larger Home Networks: APC BR1500MS2

If your network includes multiple access points, switches, or other equipment, the APC BR1500MS2 provides additional runtime and capacity.

  • 1500VA / 900W capacity
  • 10 outlets
  • excellent voltage regulation
  • USB charging ports

This UPS works well for larger home networks, network closets, or equipment racks where you want more runtime and more room to plug in devices. It is probably overkill for a basic modem-and-router setup, but for more involved home networks it makes sense.

Check the latest price

Best Budget UPS for Routers and Modems: CyberPower EC650LCD

If you only need backup power for a modem and router, the CyberPower EC650LCD offers solid protection at an affordable price.

  • 650VA / 390W capacity
  • compact design
  • LCD battery display
  • energy-saving outlets

This is the kind of UPS that makes a lot of sense for someone who is tired of brief outages knocking out the internet and does not want to spend a fortune fixing the problem.

Check the latest price

Best Compact UPS for Small Setups: APC BE600M1

The APC BE600M1 is a small UPS designed for simple networking setups.

  • 600VA / 330W capacity
  • compact footprint
  • USB charging port
  • reliable APC design

If you only want to keep a modem and router running, this compact UPS can do the job without taking up much space. It is especially appealing if your equipment lives on a shelf, in a corner, or anywhere a larger UPS would be awkward.

Check the latest price

Best Premium UPS for Networking Equipment: Eaton 5S700LCD

The Eaton 5S700LCD is known for excellent build quality and strong electrical protection.

  • 700VA / 420W capacity
  • excellent surge protection
  • LCD display
  • durable internal components

If you want something a bit more robust than the usual consumer UPS options, Eaton is a respected name. This model is a good fit for buyers who care about electrical protection quality as much as runtime.

Check the latest price

How Long a UPS Can Keep Your Internet Running

UPS runtime depends on how much electricity your devices use.

Because routers and modems consume very little power, runtime can be surprisingly long:

  • small UPS: 30–60 minutes
  • mid-size UPS: 1–2 hours
  • larger UPS: several hours depending on load

If your ISP’s neighborhood equipment stays online during an outage, that can mean your internet keeps working long after the lights go out. Of course, if the provider’s own local infrastructure loses power, your UPS cannot fix that. But for many brief outages and localized electrical issues inside your home, it absolutely helps.

How Much UPS Capacity Do You Actually Need for a Router and Modem?

This is one of the biggest mistakes people make when shopping for a UPS. They assume they need a huge battery backup because that is what they would need for a gaming PC or home server.

For a modem and router, that usually is not true.

If your combined load is only 20 to 40 watts, even a modest UPS can provide meaningful runtime. The bigger units are useful if:

  • you want much longer runtime
  • you also want to power access points, switches, or cameras
  • you want extra overhead and flexibility

For a simple setup, the budget and compact models are often enough. For more complicated home networks, the larger units become easier to justify.

UPS Features That Matter for Networking Equipment

When choosing a UPS for routers and modems, these features matter most:

  • Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR) to stabilize power fluctuations
  • pure sine wave output for sensitive electronics
  • surge protection for networking hardware
  • sufficient outlets for your modem, router, and other equipment

You do not necessarily need the most expensive UPS on the market, but you do want one that handles brownouts and voltage fluctuations gracefully. Those are often more common than full outages.

If you want to understand these features in more detail, see this guide to choosing a UPS with the right features.

When a UPS Makes the Biggest Difference for Home Internet

A UPS battery backup is especially useful if:

  • power flickers frequently
  • you work from home
  • your security cameras rely on internet connectivity
  • your smart home devices depend on cloud services
  • your modem takes several minutes to come back online after a power outage

Even brief outages can lead to several minutes of downtime while a modem and router reboot. A UPS prevents that interruption entirely and can make your home internet feel much more reliable.

Which UPS Is Best for Your Router and Modem?

If you want the best balance of price, features, and runtime, the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD is the strongest overall choice for most people.

If you have a larger home network or want more runtime, the APC BR1500MS2 is a strong upgrade.

If you want a lower-cost solution, the CyberPower EC650LCD and APC BE600M1 are both sensible picks for simple setups.

And if you want a more premium UPS with a strong reputation for power protection, the Eaton 5S700LCD is worth a look.

For something as simple as keeping your router and modem online during a power outage, a UPS is one of the most practical upgrades you can make. Once you have one, it is hard to go back to watching your internet disappear every time the power blinks.

Published on March 29, 2026
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Smoke detector chirping at night due to sealed 10-year battery reaching end of life
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Your Smoke Detector Won’t Stop Chirping? The Hidden 10-Year Battery Problem

You come home after being away for a few days and hear it immediately.

Chirp… chirp… chirp.

Your smoke detector won’t stop chirping.

Naturally, you assume the smoke detector battery needs to be replaced. You press reset, maybe flip the breaker, and expect the noise to stop.

Except it doesn’t.

That happened to me recently. I had been away for a while, came into the house, and heard the beeping. I tried hitting reset, but that did nothing. I removed the unit and realized it was hardwired. After some searching, I discovered the real issue: the detector had an integrated 10-year battery that could not be replaced. To make the sound stop, I had to physically disable the unit with a screwdriver and then replace the alarm entirely.

That experience sent me down a rabbit hole, and I suspect many homeowners are about to have the same one.

Quick Answer: Why a Smoke Detector Chirps Even After Replacing the Battery

If your smoke detector chirps even after resetting it or replacing the battery, the unit may have a sealed 10-year battery and the detector itself has reached the end of its lifespan. In that case the entire alarm must be replaced rather than the battery.

Why This Problem Is Suddenly Becoming Common

Many homeowners are encountering this issue for the first time because sealed 10-year smoke detectors became much more common roughly 10 to 15 years ago. In fact, some places, for example, New York, no longer allow the sale of ones with replaceable batteries.

These units were designed to solve a real safety problem. Traditional detectors used replaceable batteries, and some people removed the batteries to stop nuisance alarms and forgot to reinstall them. When it comes to hardwired smoke detectors, the battery serves as a backup if the power goes out.

Manufacturers responded by introducing alarms with sealed lithium batteries designed to last the life of the detector. The trade-off is that once the battery or sensor reaches the end of its lifespan, you cannot replace the battery. The entire smoke detector must be replaced.

If your detectors were installed in the early or mid-2010s, you may now be hearing their end-of-life warning chirp for the first time.

The Real Reason a Smoke Detector Keeps Chirping

Smoke detectors can chirp for several reasons, but one of the most confusing is the end-of-life warning used by many modern alarms.

Many detectors now:

  • use a sealed 10-year lithium battery
  • are hardwired but include a sealed backup battery
  • chirp every 30–60 seconds when the unit reaches end of life
  • must be replaced entirely once this happens

That is why pressing reset often does not fix the problem. The detector is not asking for a new battery. It is telling you the entire alarm has expired.

How to Tell If You Have a Sealed 10-Year Smoke Detector

Take the detector down and inspect it carefully. Signs you are dealing with a sealed battery alarm include:

  • no removable battery compartment
  • “10-year sealed battery” printed on the back
  • a installation date close to or more than 10 years old. Smoke detectors include a place to write this on the device. You can also set a calendar reminder or keep a spreadsheet if you are the sort to do so.
  • instructions referencing permanent battery deactivation

If you forgot or it is unreadable, check the manufacture date. Most smoke detectors have a manufacture date printed on the back. If the unit is around 10 years old, it should be replaced even if it appears to work normally.

Why Resetting the Detector Often Does Nothing

When homeowners hear chirping, they usually try the obvious fixes:

  • pressing the reset button
  • cutting power at the breaker
  • looking for a battery compartment
  • disconnecting and reconnecting the alarm

These steps make sense, but they cannot revive a sealed-battery detector that has reached the end of its service life. The chirp is a built-in warning that the unit itself needs to be replaced.

How I Finally Stopped the Chirping

In my case, the alarm was hardwired, which made things more confusing. I assumed there had to be a replaceable backup battery somewhere.

There was not.

What finally worked was removing the detector and finding the battery disable mechanism. Many sealed alarms include a small tab or switch that permanently disconnects the internal battery when the unit is removed for disposal. Using a screwdriver to activate that mechanism stopped the chirping.

Of course, that also meant the alarm was finished and needed to be replaced.

How to Stop a Chirping Smoke Detector for Good

If the detector has reached end of life, the permanent solution is replacement.

The process usually looks like this:

  1. Remove the detector from its mounting plate.
  2. Check the manufacture date on the back.
  3. Confirm whether it uses a sealed battery.
  4. Disable the old alarm if it continues chirping after removal.
  5. Install a new compatible smoke detector.

If several alarms were installed at the same time, it may be worth checking the age of the others in your home as well.

Choosing a Replacement Smoke Detector

If you are replacing an expired alarm anyway, it may be worth upgrading to a newer model.

Depending on your setup, you may want:

  • a sealed 10-year battery smoke detector
  • a detector that complies with the latest standards. recommendations and technology improves every few years
  • a hardwired alarm with battery backup
  • a combination smoke and carbon monoxide detector
  • a smart smoke detector that sends phone alerts

If you want to explore modern options, I have previously covered smart smoke detectors and compared several models in my guide to the best smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.

Why Smoke Detector Chirping Often Starts at Night

Many people notice the chirping begins overnight or in the early morning. That is not a coincidence.

Lower nighttime temperatures can slightly reduce battery voltage. When a battery is already weak or nearing end of life, that drop can trigger the alarm’s warning system. The detector may have been close to failure already, and cooler overnight conditions push it over the threshold.

Unfortunately, that means these alarms tend to start chirping at the most annoying possible time.

When a Chirping Smoke Detector Means It’s Time to Replace the Alarm

If your smoke detector chirps even after resetting it or replacing the battery, the detector itself may have reached the end of its lifespan.

Many smoke alarms installed over the last 10 to 15 years contain sealed batteries designed to last the life of the detector. Once that life ends, the only real solution is replacing the entire alarm.

If your unit is about a decade old, the chirping is usually not a glitch. It is the detector telling you it is done.

Published on March 26, 2026
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How to Choose a UPS with the Right Features in 2026

Choosing a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) sounds simple. After all, people buying power strips don’t think that much about them. But not only are UPSes designed to protect your devices, they are designed to keep them running during a power outage. How do you pick the right combination of features and price? In a previous post, I talked about how a problem with my UPS could have caused disaster.

APC vs Cyberpower

The two most popular consumer UPS companies are probably APC and Cyberpower. While I have used both, the last few years, I have mostly purchased Cyberpower. Neither brand is perfect, however.

For most individuals, any of these options is an improvement over no protection.

Reliability Improvements

In order to improve the reliability of power delivered to our devices, you want these features to provide cleaner power to your devices.

  • AVR(Automatic Voltage Regulation) –  which ensures the delivery of power free from voltage fluctuations
  • PFC(Power Factor Correction) – This reduces current draw, making it more efficient, though you need to check on the power supplies of computers connected to it for compatibility.

Recommendations

For a full featured CyberPower, you might want to try the CP1000PFCLED. There are variants of this model with different power ratings. It has:

  • Automatic Voltage Regulation
  • Power Factor Correction
  • Swappable Battery
  • Data Port
  • LCD Screen for basic stats

Going down a level, you have the EC650LCD. It has:

  • The LCD Screen
  • The Swappable Battery
  • The Data Port

I use the less expensive model for some of my networking equipment and the one with extra features for my homelab server.

Absolute Requirements

  • Swappable Battery – You also want a UPS with a swappable battery, because without it, the day the battery fails, you have to buy a new unit.
  • Data Port – You also want a USB connection to hook into a system and neatly shut down, which both of the recommendations have.

In the end, a UPS is a valuable tool for protection, but you need to know what you are getting into.

Published on March 19, 2026
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cutting the cord ditching cable for youtube tv
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YouTube TV Review: Cutting the Cord After Years of Cable

The day has finally come. After years of saying I would relinquish my cable card and my homemade DVR only when forced, my provider has made that decision for me. I still have broadcast, such as it is, but this seemed like a good time, when my provider has said that it will cease to work in the not too distant future, to try something new.

There are two types of cord cutting:

  • Subscriptions to Individual Streaming Services
  • Live TV Subscriptions

Live TV being a replacement for cable TV in functionality. I have traditional family members who are only slowly learning they don’t need appointment TV all the time. But they still want it. So, how do we solve this problem?

I decided to try a trial period of YouTube TV. Most people seem to consider it the gold standard for internet based Live TV. Some of the other providers are less expensive and may better suit you, but even the most expensive YouTube TV plan may be less than you are paying your cable provider noawadays.

Make a List of What Content You Want

What actually is important to you? What channels do you want? Do you watch sports? News? Etc. For exclusive streamers, which ones have the content you want? Is there anything you want to watch live? Or is live just about serendipity…as it helps you choose random things to watch?

YouTube TV: The Features

  • Six individual family accounts
  • Unlimited DVR Space, shows expire in a few months.
  • Three simultaneous things can be watched at once
  • Their 4K Plus add on adds unlimited streams, offline downloads, and some 4K content. 4K content is only available for playback on some devices.
  • Add Ons of various streaming services

YouTube TV: A Simple Review

I wasn’t sure what to expect.

  • Faster Release – The first advantage of having a DVR is that the program is available live, and immediately thereafter. No waiting till the next day after airing to watch it. If earlier is something you want.
  • Live TV Anywhere – You can watch this on the go, or on vacation.
  • Customization – There are no channel numbers, so you can rearrange the guide and hide the channels you don’t want. You can avoid the guide entirely and approach it from a show or movie point of view.
  • Intuitive Interface – The interface is familiar to anyone who has used YouTube or similar services. Even my technologically challenged relatives can handle it.

What YouTube TV Replaces From a Traditional DVR

  • Cable DVR hardware

  • CableCARD setup

  • Recording limits

  • Watching TV outside the house

Is YouTube TV Worth It?

If you are looking for a cable replacement with DVR functionality, YouTube TV is one of the best options currently available.

What YouTube TV does particularly well:

• Unlimited DVR storage
• Multiple family accounts
• Live TV anywhere
• Easy interface even for non-technical users

The biggest drawback is price. At $82.99 per month, YouTube TV is no longer dramatically cheaper than cable for some households.

However, if your current cable package includes:

  • equipment rental fees

  • DVR fees

  • regional sports fees

  • broadcast surcharges

YouTube TV may still end up being less expensive overall.

For many households, the real benefit is simplicity — no hardware, no installations, and access to your recordings from anywhere.

YouTube TV vs Cable TV

For many households the real comparison is not between streaming services, but between YouTube TV and traditional cable TV.

Feature YouTube TV Traditional Cable
DVR Unlimited cloud DVR Limited storage DVR, often at additional service cost
Equipment No dedicated hardware required Cable box + DVR rental
Watching Away From Home Works anywhere with internet Usually limited to home network, some limited mobile options
Setup Sign up online Technician or equipment installation
Price ~$82.99/month Often $90–$150 with fees

The biggest difference is flexibility.

With cable, recordings are tied to your DVR hardware. With YouTube TV, recordings are stored in the cloud and accessible from any device.

For households that travel frequently or want to watch on phones, tablets, and laptops, this can be a major advantage.

Conclusion: YouTube TV Is Compelling, Even with Budget Alternatives

The one possible stumbling block with YouTube TV is the base price of $82.99. It is at the higher end of the cable replacement services, but that is still again, less than many cable plans. But YouTube TV in February announced that they would introduce new less expensive plans that focus on different preferences, should you need fewer channels. After my promotional discount is over, I may look to pare down the selection. But for now, it may be time to call my cable provider and see how much cancelling TV through them will save me.

Because while bundle discounts may mean my internet through them will go up, it should hopefully be a net win.

Published on March 15, 2026
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UPS batteries fail silently
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UPS Batteries May Only Last 2–3 Years (And They Usually Fail Without Warning)

Last week I walked into my office and discovered that several of my computer systems were down.

Everything about it looked like a power outage.

Except there hadn’t been one.

All of the equipment was connected to a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) — essentially a battery backup power strip designed to keep systems running during outages.

But despite the name uninterruptible, everything had shut off.

UPS Batteries Don’t Last Forever

Most consumer UPS units use sealed lead-acid batteries. The typical lifespan is:

  • 2–3 years in normal conditions
  • shorter in warm environments
  • shorter if the UPS frequently switches to battery

Once the battery degrades enough, the UPS can no longer provide power and the unit may simply shut down when power fluctuates.

Many consumer UPS devices, such as mine,  provide little or no reliable warning before this happens. Silent failures defeat the purpose of a protective device.

My New Maintenance Plan

After this latest failure, I needed to adopt a much more systematic approach.

  1. Only buy UPSes with swappable batteries – the budget models often lack
  2. Label Every Battery – The date of installation of each battery will be labeled on the unit and on the battery.
  3. Perform Regular Hard Tests –

At regular intervals:

    • Power down connected equipment
    • Unplug the UPS from the wall
    • Confirm that the battery engages.
    • Optionally plug in a small device to verify the UPS actually provides power under load.

 

A UPS is not a “set it and forget it” device. If you rely on one to protect important systems — servers, networking gear, or workstations — you need to treat the battery as consumable component. Plan to replace it every few years and test it occasionally. Most UPS manufacturers recommend replacing sealed lead-acid batteries every 3 years, even if the device still appears to function normally.

Otherwise, the day you actually need the UPS may be the day you discover it stopped working long ago.

Published on March 12, 2026
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Typing On The Go: Best Travel Keyboards in 2026

There are a few approaches to travel keyboards. In previous years, we discussed folding keyboards as a possible solution. But a lot of those do not have the typing experience of a mechanical keyboard. So how can you get the customizable typing experience you want while on the go? All of my thoughts below use open source firmware for maximum customizability, and hotswap switch options where offered. In making

If you are looking for something other than a mechanical keyboard, you can consider something like the Keychron B series. These are scissor switch keyboards, a popular choice on laptops, but they offer full customizability with ZMK open source firmware. The smallest is the Keychron B1 Pro, at $33.99 but if your travel needs allow, you can get larger ones.

The next option would be a low profile mechanical keyboard. There are a lot of good options there.  Keychron, which makes a variety of mid-market keyboards, offers Ultra-Slim QMK open source KS-33 low profile mechanical switch keyboards. They offer a 75% at the lowest rate, the K3 QMK at $74.99 at the time this was published. They make a smaller 65% version as well.

If you want to bump up a level, you can go for a Nuphy low profile. Nuphy offers their Air series. The v2 series uses QMK open source firmware, and the newer v3 has reverted back to proprietary software, so for now would recommend the v2. I bought a used original version of this keyboard, acquiring used versions of both the 60 and the 75, both of which suffered from battery swelling, which is apparently not uncommon, but the ones I got used work perfectly well wired without a battery. Nuphy does not sell replacement batteries and tried to talk me into buying a new one. The Air60v2 is currently $109.95 and the Air75v2 is at $101.95.

The next option for portability is something that isn’t usually used for portability at all. Split keyboards. Split keyboards are usually a preference of individuals for ergonomic reasons. But a split also means your keyboard divides into two pieces. While there are a lot of unique layouts for these, you can get traditional layouts, just in two pieces. There is the Epomaker Split65. Epomaker does suffer from reports of inconsistent quality, but they are a popular budget brand. If you are willing to build, you can go over to companies like Keebio. They offer a kit and an assembled set of split keyboards, like the 65% Quefrency. They also offer the 60% FoldKB.

At the moment, my preference is for a 40% keyboard. These are keyboards that have less than 50 keys. There are a variety of layouts for these. While there are 40% made by bigger companies like Keychron, such as their Q9, you have to go a bit off the open path to find a bit more variety. I have my other site, selling supplies for these tiny keyboards, called Mechdreams, where you can see some of these. These small keyboards are great for small spaces, and you can fit one in your pocket, or even on your belt, and they are fully functional keyboards, although there is a learning curve.

So, what does this tell us? The best travel keyboard is the smallest or thinnest you can fit in your bag and still enjoy using.

 

Published on February 20, 2026
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How to Supercharge Your Alerts with Ntfy: Priorities, Actions, and Smart Integrations

Previously, I wrote about using Ntfy as a notification system for Uptime Kuma. But the system has a lot of other advantages, so I wanted to go into a bit more detail on how it can be used.

Ntfy works on channels. Channels manifest as paths under the server URL. For example, ntfy.sh/gadgetwisdom would be a gadgetwisdom channel. By default, the ones on the public server are all public, meaning that you can only hide or restrict them by having a hard to guess channel name, if you host the server, you can add access control globally, or on a per channel basis to require authentication for subscribing, publishing, or both.

  • Priorities – Ntfy supports custom priorities from 1 to 5, with 3 being the default.
  • Templates – If a service sends data in JSON format, you can write a template for Ntfy to interpret it, rather than having to set up something in between to do that.
  • Action Buttons –  You can add buttons to view a webpage, send a http request to a URL, or on Android only, trigger an Android intent.
  • Attachments – You can send attachments using a file or URL link in a message. Files expire in a few hours, but linked files would be available longer.
  • Icons – To help identify different messages, notifications can have an icon.
  • Phone Calls – Ntfy supports via a Twilio account notifying people via phone using text to speech.

This leaves a lot of creative opportunities for integrations.

  • Maybe I want to have urgent messages phoned to certain people. Setting priority levels and noises can also help with this.
  • Action buttons could allow me to instantly react to alerts with simple actions.
  • Attachments already let me view snapshots from my Frigate feed, but what else could I send.

As I look to better integrate this, this service reveals a lot of simple options I can leverage.

Published on December 1, 2025
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